Introduction
Thank you for choosing MTX to help reach the ultimate goal with your vehicle. Adding MTX amplifiers and
matching MTX speakers and subwoofers with StreetWires connections will put you in a better position to
hear, feel, and experience all of the music the artist intended.
Specifications
Primary Ratings:
Power Output: 125 watts RMS x 2-channels at 4 ohm and 1% THD+N
Signal-to-Noise Ratio (1 watt): 74dB
Secondary Ratings:
Power Output: 250 watts RMS x 2-channels at 2 ohm and 1% THD+N
Power Output: 375 watts RMS x 2-channels at 1 ohm and
Power Output: 500 watts RMS x 1 bridged at 4 ohm and
Power Output: 750 watts RMS x 1 bridged at 2 ohm and 1% THD+N
THD+Noise (Distortion) (1 watt): .1%
Frequency Response (-3dB): 20Hz-20kHz
Maximum Input Signal: 10V
Maximum Sensitivity: 100mV
Dimensions: 9-5/8” x 20-11/16” x 2-1/2” (245mm x 525mm x 65mm)
Smart Engage™ Auto-Turn-On (Patent No: US06556683)
Patented Pure N-Channel Technology (Patent No: US05631608, US05783970)
Patented Power Supply (US05598325)
Input Sensitivity Switch: 100mV-1V/1V-10V
Crossover: Hi, 12dB / Low, 24dB Mono @ 40Hz-350Hz, Defeat
Subsonic @ 30Hz, 12dB/oct, Defeat
Parametric EQ: Boost/Cut +/-12dB, Freq. 30Hz-80Hz, Q 0.5-4.0
ARC: Cut 0-15dB, Freq. 200Hz
Features
1. Prizm EFX – All MTX amplifiers include backlit adjustment controls on the top surface of the product.
• Color – The backlit controls offer unlimited colors on the display -- from RED, GREEN, and BLUE to any color
in between.
• EFX – You can switch Prizm EFX lighting to “pulsate” with the beat of the music.
2. Xtant Technology Cooling (XTC) – A thermal-regulated turbo-charged intercooler supplies fan forced cool air
evenly and constantly through tightly packed bonded fins. Fan speed is continuously variable and controlled
by the amplifier’s output, temperature of the heatsink, and transformers. Exhaust from the internal heatsink is
strategically positioned to cool the transformers to maintain maximum performance at all volumes.
3. Bi-Level Inputs with Smart Engage™ – All MTX amplifiers feature RCA type input connections. All MTX
amplifiers allow both high level and line level input into the RCA type input connections.
• Low Level Input – Source units with an output signal level of 100mV–10V may be used. See “Input
Sensitivity” for proper voltage level setting.
• High Level Inputs with Smart Engage™ – All MTX amplifiers allow high level inputs through RCA type input
connections using provided high level adapters. Source units with an output signal level of 100mV–10V may
be used. See “Input Sensitivity” for proper voltage level setting.
• Smart-Engage™ Auto-Turn-On - An auto-turn-on circuit is included within the amplifier. A remote turn-on
wire is not necessary when connecting the amplifier’s high-level input to a high-powered source unit (car
stereo). The amplifier will automatically turn on when music is received through this type of connection.
Note: Smart Engage™ is only active on the left input.
Installation
Mounting
Place your Thunder amplifier at the predetermined mounting location. Use a felt pen to mark the exact position
of the mounting holes on the mounting surface. Set the amplifier aside. Then with a sharp, precise blade cut
small circles in the carpet and padding around the four marks denoting your mounting holes to expose the
metal underneath. Use a center punch to make an indentation in the metal to ensure that you drill the exact
position for the screws.
Note: Please use common sense and make sure that all vehicle wires, gas lines, brake lines, etc. are clear and will
not interfere with the installation. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER SAFETY GLASSES.
Connections
1. Bi-Level Inputs (Low/High Level Input) with Smart Engage™ –
Both a low and high level signal can be used. Be sure to lay the signal wire away from all power cables and
vehicle computers. Use high quality twisted pair interconnect cables to decrease the possibility of radiated
noise entering the system.
• Using RCA Connections: If the source unit has RCA outputs, simply attach a signal cable from the source unit
to the amp’s RCA input. This will provide signal to the amp.
• Using Speaker Level Connections: If the source unit does not have RCA outputs, a high level signal can be
used instead by taking the supplied high level RCA adapter cables and connecting the bare wire ends to the
vehicle’s rear speaker wiring. Connect the left negative speaker wire to the green with black stripe wire on the
supplied high level RCA adapter. Connect the left positive speaker wire to the solid green wire. Do the same
for the right speaker connection using the purple wire. Now plug the RCA connectors located on opposite end
of the supplied high-level RCA cables into the amp’s inputs.
2. Speaker Wire Connections –
When installing the speaker wires, please take proper measures to protect them. For example, when
connecting the door speakers, the speaker wire should run from the amplifier’s output terminals, under the
carpet, and through the factory rubber boot (loom) that protects the wires in the inner door jam. If the factory
boot cannot be used, take other measures to protect these wires. Sometimes the door has to be completely
removed to use the factory boot. If this is something that you do not feel comfortable doing, please ask a
professional to help you.
When connecting the speaker wires to the amplifier please observe the printed polarity markings on the
amplifier’s StreetWires connector. Failing to wire the speakers in proper phase could result in a loss of bass
response or poor overall sound quality.
2-channel Amplifiers: These amps will have four speaker terminals: left positive, left negative, right positive, and
right negative.
• Stereo (2-channel) Connection: This configuration is typically used with full range or high frequency
speakers. Each channel can drive a minimum of a 1 ohm load.
• Bridged (1-channel) Connection: This configuration is typically used with subwoofers. Both channels
combined can drive a minimum of a 2 ohm mono load for max power.
Note: Please pay attention and make sure the speakers or woofers are the correct IMPEDANCE (OHMS) BEFORE
attaching to the amplifier.
3. Power Terminals – Please take proper measures during installation to protect the power wires as best you
can. For example, when running the power cable from the vehicle’s battery through the firewall, use a firewall
bushing for protection. Run the power wire through the interior of the vehicle, under the carpet, and to the
amplifier. If this is something that you do not feel comfortable doing, please ask a professional to help you. Be
sure to lay the power wire away from all signal cables.
When connecting the power wires to the amplifier please observe the printed markings on the amplifier’s
StreetWires power connector. Failing to wire the power cables properly could result in amplifier damage.
• +12V: This is the main power input for the amplifier and must be connected directly to the positive terminal
of the car battery for the amplifier to operate properly. It is important that a main fuse is installed a maximum
of 18” from the battery.
• GND: This is the ground connection for the amplifier and must be connected directly to the metal chassis
of the vehicle for the amplifier to operate properly. A properly grounded amplifier can be run harder and
longer than a poorly grounded amplifier. The ground on the amplifier should be as short as possible and
be connected directly to the vehicle’s metal chassis. Do not connect to factory bolts of ANY kind. When
attaching the ground to the chassis, sand all the paint away from the contact point. A grounding block like the
StreetWires GT4 should be used whenever possible as this piece of equipment has 5 times the surface area of
The gauge of the power and ground wire is often an overlooked aspect of amplifier installation. The more power
the amplifier receives, the more power it will produce. Power cables have a natural resistance, and will lose
voltage by the time the power makes its way to the amplifier. The larger gauge (diameter) wire will hold more
voltage over longer runs. Also, by having a larger diameter ground wire, the amplifier can run more efficiently.
MTX recommends using a minimum of 4 gauge power and ground cables to get the best performance.
• REM: This connection turns the amplifier on and off and needs to be connected to a remote turn-on wire
from your source unit if you are using a low level input connection.
Note: When numerous amplifiers are used in the same system, look into using a relay with a separate power wire
connected to an alternative power source to take the strain off the source unit. Normal source units can only
keep a constant 12 volts to 2 or possibly 3 amps. This wire should also be run away from the RCA cables.
• CAP+: This 8 gauge terminal is internally wired in parallel with the +12V on the StreetWires power connector.
It is the ideal connection point for the positive side of a capacitor to increase the amplifier’s performance.
• CAP-: This 8 gauge terminal is internally wired in parallel with the GND on the StreetWires power connector.
It is the ideal connection point for the negative side of the capacitor to increase the amplifier’s performance.
Double check all the previous connection installation steps, in particular the speaker and power wiring. Securely
mount the amplifier. If everything is in order, reconnect the vehicle’s negative battery connection and begin
following the feature setup and adjustment steps.
Feature Setup and Adjustments
1. Selecting the Input Sensitivity Range – Before you turn on your system, you must select the proper input
sensitivity range on your amp using the button labeled INPUT SENS located in the GAIN CONTROL section of
the control panel.
• Setting for Aftermarket Source Units: Refer to your aftermarket owner’s manual for line level output
specification. If the specification is not available, please follow the instructions listed below.
X1 POSITION: 100mV–1V (Typically for RCA Input)
• Setting for Factory (OEM) Source Units: To check the amount of voltage that is present from the source
unit, take a multi meter, or a volt/ohm meter, on the AC setting, (range from 100mV up to 10 volts) attach the
positive and negative leads directly to any exposed speaker. It will not matter if the polarity is correct, it will
read the same amount of voltage.
X10 POSITION: 1V–10V (Typically for Speaker Level Input)
Note: It is important not to have the amp set up to receive a low voltage signal and give it a high voltage signal.
Doing this can cause damage to the amp.
2. Adjusting the Gain Control – Before you start setting your amp gains, be sure to defeat all EQs (“off”
position). You want to set the gain levels properly BEFORE applying any equalization.
Start with the source unit’s volume around ¾ of the way up, and the gain on the amp all the way down (counter-
clockwise). Slowly increase the gain clockwise until the speaker starts to distort. Immediately decrease gain
until the distortion goes away. This will be a good reference point on the volume control to where the signal
starts to distort. Remember every CD will be different; use common sense and constantly listen for obvious
distortion and adjust volume accordingly. The gain on the amp has nothing to do with how much power the
amp can produce, just how fast the amp puts out max power. Just like in an automobile, full throttle is very
rarely needed.
3. Adjusting the Hi, 12dB / Low, 24dB Mono @ 40Hz–350Hz Variable X-over Frequency Controls –
• Setting for Subwoofers: First enable the electronic crossover by selecting the “ON” position of the X-OVER
switch, and then select the “L-PASS” (Low pass) position on the L-PASS/H-PASS switch. Next, using “L-
PASS FREQ” you have control over what frequency you want your amp to start crossing over your signal.
By turning this control all the way counter-clockwise you are crossing the signal over at 40Hz (the range is
counter-clockwise 40Hz to clockwise 350Hz). This means that the amp will send the woofers frequencies from
20Hz to 40Hz and then start to taper down as the frequencies get over 40Hz (octave roll off). The industry
standard for low pass crossover point is right around 90Hz. However, by experimenting with the crossover
point (higher or lower) you will find what sounds best in this install. This amp uses a 24 decibel per octave roll
off, which is pretty steep, or tapers off fairly quickly from the crossover point. This design complements both
the subwoofer and the mids to provide greater musical detail.
• Setting for Components and Separates: First enable the electronic crossover by selecting the “ON” position
of the X-OVER switch, and then select the “H-PASS” (High pass) position on the L-PASS/H-PASS switch. Next,
using “H-PASS FREQ” you have control over what frequency you want your amp to start crossing over your
signal. By turning this control all the way counter-clockwise you are crossing the signal over at 40Hz (the
range is counter-clockwise 40Hz to clockwise 350Hz). This means that the amp will send the components or
separates frequencies from 40Hz to 20kHz and then start to taper down as the frequencies get under 40Hz
(octave roll off). The industry standard for high pass setting or X-over point is around 120Hz. When the amp
is in HP setting and the X-over point is set to 120Hz, the amp is sending the speakers frequencies from 120Hz
to 20kHz. This crossover network allows the drivers to recreate the frequencies within a precisely designed
range so that the speakers do not become distorted by trying to reproduce frequencies that they are physically
unable to reproduce. This feature ensures that the components or separates do not receive low bass notes.
The 12dB/oct means the slope, or the amount of other frequencies that will be affected, is fairly narrow. This
design complements both the subwoofer and the mids to provide greater musical detail.
• Setting for Full Range (No Crossover): To disable the electronic crossover, select the “OFF” position of the
X-OVER switch. This setting will allow the amplifier to play all frequencies.
4. Setting the 30Hz, 12dB Fixed Subsonic Filter – First enable the Subsonic Filter by selecting the “ON” position
of the SUBSONIC FILTER switch. This feature will help remove some of the potentially damaging low
frequencies of 30 Hz and below from your subwoofer system. Use this feature if the subwoofer breaks up at
lower frequencies.
5. Adjusting the Parametric Equalizer – In some applications, the bass amplifier needs some help in boosting
or cutting certain frequencies. A parametric equalizer is distinguished from a conventional equalizer circuit
in that it allows the user to control the level of the boost or cut as well as the center frequency and the
bandwidth of the boost or cut (the range of frequencies affected).
The following steps describe what each of the three controls of the parametric Bass EQ do in isolation. It is
important to understand these behaviors, because they must all be considered when setting up the EQ.
• Setting the “Q”: The “Q” feature can be adjusted to affect a range of frequencies from as wide as 0.5 to
as narrow as 4.0. As a general rule of thumb, start tuning with a “Q” setting below “2”. Higher “Q” values
are rarely needed unless there is some bizarre acoustic problem in the system. Lower “Q” values give you
a broader (and usually more natural-sounding) effect. A “Q” of “1.6” (10 o’clock setting) is a good starting
point.
• Setting the Frequency: Begin listening for the loudest musical spot or range within the bass range of your
sound system. Adjust the center frequency to match this point. For most systems, the best center frequency
adjustment will be between 40-50Hz. Use 45Hz (12 o’clock setting) as a starting point and adjust up or down
gradually.
• Setting the Boost/Cut: Once you determined the loudest musical spot or range within the bass range of your
sound system, start cutting until the response is smooth and even. You can also boost low spots within the
musical range, but don’t go crazy with the boost knob. There is a lot of boost available, 12dB, but begin with
a low boost setting (around 3dB) and try to stay below 6dB whenever possible. Remember that for every 3dB
of additional boost you dial in, you are asking the amplifier to double its power output for a given signal in the
boost region.
6. Adjusting The Active Resonance Control (A.R.C.) Feature – This feature will be needed when mounting
speakers lower in the door or in kick panels. Most vehicles have a natural peak that occurs at about 200Hz.
By turning the Pot located on the top control panel clockwise, you CUT 200Hz up to 15dB. This allows you to
remove the unwanted peaks in your mids and highs that occur in most vehicles.
7. Remote Subwoofer Level Control (Remote Gain) – Let’s say the amplifier’s gain is set at halfway. When the
remote subwoofer level control is plugged in, you have external control of the gain from zero to halfway. The
installation of this level control is NOT necessary to get full power from amplifier.
Note: One Remote Subwoofer Level Control can control two or more amplifiers using a mini plug Y-adapter.
8. Prizm EFX – Now that you have completed adjusting all your amplifier settings, you can set the lighting effects
to your personal taste.
• Selecting Colors: You can change the backlit colors simply by turning the dial labeled PRIZM COLOR, located
in the MTX PRIZM EFX section of the control panel, left or right. Starting at the left most position, the colors
range from RED to GREEN, BLUE, and then RED again. You can choose any color in between making the
• Selecting The EFX Feature: You can switch Prizm EFX lighting to “pulsate” with the beat of the music.
Simply depress the button labeled PRIZM EFX located in the in the MTX PRIZM EFX section of the control
panel to turn this feature on or off.
Trouble Shooting
Read this if you want to be a do-it-yourselfer or give us a call at 800-CALLMTX.
PROBLEM
CAUSE
SOLUTION
No LED indication
No +12V at remote connection
No +12V at Power connection
Insufficient ground connection
Blown power fuse
Supply +12V to terminal
Supply +12V to terminal
Verify ground connection
Replace fuse
LED on, no output
Volume on head unit off
Speaker connections not made
Gain control on amplifier off
Signal processing units off
All speakers blown
Increase volume on head unit
Make speaker connections
Turn up gain
Apply power to signal processor
Replace speakers
Output distorted
Balance reversed
Bass is weak
Head unit volume set too high
Amplifier gain set too high
Lower head unit volume
Lower amplifier gain
Speakers wired L + R reversed
RCA inputs reversed
Wire speakers with correct orientation
Reverse RCA input
Speakers wired out
phase
Not using MTX woofers
Wire with correct of phase
Buy MTX woofers
Blowing fuses
Excessive output levels
Amplifier defective
Lower volume
Return for service
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